I forgot to mention that at dinner last night, I tried the national liquor, Brennevín, also known as “Black Death.” It is essentially high-proof vodka flavored with caraway and cumin, often with other herbs and flavorings mixed in. I thought it was complex and interesting, with the caraway being the predominant flavor. I liked it, but it was obvious to me why it is nicknamed Black Death, and it isn’t for the color, which is clear–I think if you drank much of it, you would feel like you were were about to die.
Speaking of which, there is a popular rock band here called Brennevín, and another called Dunnuborgír (Black Fortress). Interesting that the Celtic for fortress is Dun, more evidence of how closely tied Iceland is to Scotland and Ireland.
Today we decided to stick close to Akuréyri, as in not leave the town. First we went to one of the world’s northernmost botanical gardens. We walked from our hotel, as it isn’t far. The garden is gorgeous and well-labeled in both Icelandic and English. Because of the way my story is developing (did I mention that I have the first, nascent beginnings of the story going?), I will need to know about the characteristics of Icelandic plants, so this was interesting to me. Besides, what’s not to like about beautiful flowers? The garden also housed the largest trees we have seen in Iceland. They must be extremely old, as trees grow slowly here.
Then we decided to walk to a store I had read about, called “The Attic” in Icelandic. My tour book raved about how fun it was to comb through the junk for treasures. Tom discovered a steep, gravel path that took us right to where we wanted to go. I was not happy about the path. Gravel and steepness spell a broken hip to a woman my age. But I held onto Tom and got there–only to discover there was no such store.
So we continued down the street to the Akuréyri Museum. By this time, I was parched, wanting nothing more than a drink of water. As I was suggesting to Tom that we go find water and then come back to the museum, a lady at the front desk asked me to wait–she would get me some water. This was extremely kind of her, especially as she turned out to be the director of the museum. (I haven’t seen a single public water fountain in Iceland yet, but water is everywhere in fjords, lakes, rivers, streams, fountains.)
I explained what I was doing, and asked her a bunch of questions that she did her best to answer. But she said I should consult with experts in the time period I was researching (pre-Christian settlement). I said she was right, but I didn’t know any. She generously offered to send me some names. People have been so kind and helpful here. They have been kind and helpful everywhere I’ve gone to do research, to be honest. We went back later to get her card so that I can mention her name as a source in the book.
As this was around lunchtime, Tom cheerfully suggested walking to a restaurant, Rub23, highly rated. By this time, my feet hurt, as did my arthritic knees. Tom appears not to have any arthritis, which is annoying. (But I am happy for him. Really.) I agreed to walk to the restaurant, and refused to walk from the restaurant back to the hotel, which I knew was Tom’s next move.
Rub23 specializes in sushi–and other things, but big on sushi. I can get sushi at home, so I ordered mussels, which were delicious. A lot of Icelandic restaurants offer hamburgers and pizza. The servers say the owners insist on it for the Americans, but Americans never order it. Why spend all the time and effort and money to go to the ends of the earth (literally) to eat the same stuff you can get at home? Of course, I can get mussels at home, but these are harvested locally in clean waters, which makes them different–at least in my mind.
Tom ordered an entire bottle of wine at lunch. This completely did me in. He walked back to the hotel and got the car, which probably burned off some alcohol. I went straight to bed when we got back, and didn’t get up until it was time to go to dinner. So that was today in Akuréyri–not exciting, but hopefully productive if the museum director sends me some helpful contacts.
Also, flowers are good.